7 Types of Pocket Hole Joints and How to Make Them

Pocket hole joinery is a versatile method that allows woodworkers to create strong and precise joints for various projects. With a pocket hole jig, you can create these seven common types of joints. Here's a guide with step-by-step instructions for each one.

Box Joint

Box joints are the most common use for pocket holes. They are used to create corners for box-like structures such as drawers, crates, and cabinets, as well as face frames for cabinets.

Steps to Make a Box Joint:

  1. Set up the pocket hole jig for the thickness of your material.
  2. Clamp the piece of wood which will butt into the other, vertically in the jig.
  3. Drill two evenly spaced pocket holes near the center of the board. For wider boards, drill the holes farther apart, near the ends of the side, but not so close as to create splitting. 
  4. Repeat on the other board for the opposite corner.
  5. Apply wood glue to the edge of one board.
  6. Align the boards at a 90-degree angle and clamp them together.
  7. Drive the right size pocket screws into the holes to secure the joint.

Edge Joint

Edge joints are used to join two or more boards edge-to-edge, commonly for tabletops or wide panels.

Steps to Make an Edge Joint:

  1. Before joining the boards, ensure that they have been thickness planed to the same thickness and that the edges are jointed, providing a clean, straight mating surface, without any gaps. 
  2. Align the boards edge-to-edge and mark where the pocket holes will be. Space them every 6–8 inches.
  3. Clamp the first board in the jig with its edge facing up.
  4. Drill pocket holes along the edge of the board at your marked locations.
  5. Apply wood glue to the edges.
  6. Align the boards, clamp them together, and drive screws into the pocket holes.
  7. If additional boards are to be added, repeat these steps for each additional board. 

Edge-Banding Joint

Edge-banding joints attach a thin wood strip to the edge of plywood or MDF to hide raw edges.

Steps to Make an Edge-Banding Joint:

  1. Cut the piece of wood that is to provide the edge banding. You’ll need a strip of wood that is the same thickness as the main piece and ¾” thick. 
  2. Place the plywood in the jig with the face side down and the edge facing up.
  3. Drill pocket holes along the edge, spaced every 6–8 inches.
  4. Apply wood glue along the edge of the plywood.
  5. Align the thin edge-banding strip with the plywood and clamp it securely.
  6. Drive screws into the pocket holes to attach the edge banding.

Flat Frame Joint

Flat frame joints connect boards in a flat plane, perfect for face frames or cabinet doors.

Steps to Make a Flat Frame Joint:

  1. Determine the assembly order, as you will probably be making several pocket hole joints. You will want to drill the pocket holes into the ends of the boards that are butting into the other boards. Generally, this means that you are working with the end grain of the wood, while the screw will go through that into the long grain of the other piece. 
  2. Clamp the end of one board in the jig with its edge facing up.
  3. Drill two pocket holes near the end of the board.
  4. Apply wood glue to the joint area.
  5. Align the two boards to form an “L” or “T” shape and clamp them flat on a workbench.
  6. Drive screws into the pocket holes to secure the frame joint.

Miter Joint

Miter joints are used for corners, particularly for picture frames or decorative projects.

Steps to Make a Miter Joint:

  1. Cut both boards at a 45-degree angle to create the mitered corners. Just as with any other miter joint, accuracy is essential to prevent gaps in the joints. 
  2. Clamp one board in the jig with the mitered edge facing down. Be sure that it is well seated and not sitting at an angle. 
  3. Drill pocket holes evenly spaced along the length of the miter. You need a minimum of two holes per miter joint. 
  4. Apply wood glue to the mitered edge.
  5. Align the two boards to form a 90-degree angle and clamp them securely. A corner clamp is recommended. 
  6. Drive screws into the pocket holes to secure the joint.

Offset Edge Joint

Offset edge joints are ideal for connecting boards of different thicknesses or for overhanging shelves. A typical example is a shelf edge that hangs down below the shelf, adding to the weight bearing capability of the shelf. 

Steps to Make an Offset Edge Joint:

  1. Determine the placement of the offset and adjust the jig to match the thickness of the shelf board.
  2. Drill pocket holes along the edge of the shelf board.
  3. Apply wood glue to the shelf board.
  4. Align the thinner board (shelf board) to the thicker board with the desired offset and clamp them together.
  5. Drive screws into the pocket holes to secure the joint.

T-Joint

T-joints are very similar to flat frame joints, connecting two boards at a 90-degree angle, commonly used for shelving or crossbars.

Steps to Make a T-Joint:

  1. Clamp the horizontal board in the jig with one end facing up.
  2. Drill two pocket holes near the end of the board that is clamped in the jig.
  3. Apply wood glue to the joint area on the vertical board.
  4. Align the horizontal board perpendicular to the vertical board and clamp them together.
  5. Drive screws into the pocket holes to secure the T-joint.

 

With these step-by-step instructions, you can confidently create a variety of pocket hole joints to enhance your woodworking projects. And you can create all of these pocket hole joints the easy way with the Sawinery Pocket Hole Jig.

Experiment with these techniques and see how they can streamline your builds!

Written by

Rich Murphy

Rich is a second-generation woodworker, raised amidst the echoes of buzzing saws in his father’s workshop. For 50 years, he’s immersed himself in the world of woodworking, continuously refining his craft. 

He's the senior woodworker in Sawinery and all the videos are being recorded in his personal workshop in Texas!