Best Way to Cut Thin Strips of Wood – Here’s How I Do It Safely

In my shop, I work on a lot of projects that call for thin pieces of wood. Sometimes it’s ultra-thin strips—like 1/16 inch—that I’ll use for jewelry or inlays. Other times, I need something like 1/2 by 3/4 inch strips for trellises or other details. The common thread? I often need a bunch of them, and they need to be the same size.

But here’s the thing: cutting those thin strips using a table saw can be dangerous if you do it the conventional way.

The Dangerous Way Most People Try First

When I started out, I’d set up my table saw so that the cutoff piece was between the blade and the fence. That seems logical, right? You just set up the fence and push the stock through. But when the piece you’re cutting is really thin, that setup becomes a problem.

A couple of things can go wrong. One, the strip can get jammed between the blade and the fence. Two, it can drop down into the throat plate and get shredded—or worse, kickback. Either way, it’s unsafe, and you end up destroying your material.

The Better Way: Cut on the Outside of the Blade

So what’s the answer? Cut the strip on the outside of the blade. That means instead of trapping the offcut between the blade and the fence, I keep the main board between the blade and the fence and let the thin piece fall off safely on the other side.

Now, that method is already much safer. But there’s a new challenge: how do you make identical cuts every time?

That’s where the Sawinery Thin Rip Gauge comes in.

How I Use the Thin Rip Gauge

This little jig has been a game-changer in my shop. It mounts into the miter slot of your table saw and lets you set up precise, repeatable cuts without using the fence to measure.

Let me walk you through how I use it:

1. Mount the Gauge

I put it in the miter slot on the right side of the blade. A lot of people are used to keeping their fence on the right, and that’s fine—but for me, the right side works better, with my fence on the left, because my left miter slot is farther away from the blade.

2. Set the Cut Width

I take the block of wood I want to cut and line it up with the bearing on the gauge. Then I slide the fence up to meet the wood and lock it down. This setup ensures that the cut-off piece ends up outside the blade—not trapped between the blade and the fence.

3. Important Note

The gauge should always be positioned forward of the blade. That way, the bearing makes contact with the wood before it reaches the blade, which eliminates any chance of binding or kickback.

4. Make the First Cut

With everything set up, I run the first cut. The result is a clean, consistent strip—no burning, no binding.

5. Repeat with Accuracy

To make the next strip, I move my board back to the gauge, slide the fence back over to meet it, and cut again. I’m not measuring or guessing—each strip is identical because I’m gauging off the blade, not the fence.

Even if I change the board entirely, as long as I position it against the bearing, I’ll get the same result.

Want a Different Width? Easy.

Say I want to cut 3/4 inch by 3/4 inch stock for something like finish carpentry. No problem. I find my zero point on the gauge and slide the bearing over exactly 3/4 of an inch using the built-in scale. That gives me perfect, consistent results—again, without risking kickback or damaged material.

Final Thoughts

So whether I’m cutting ultra-thin pieces for delicate work or wider stock for other projects, the Thin Rip Gauge helps me do it safely and consistently. I don’t have to worry about binding or adjusting the fence a dozen times. It’s all dialed in, and I can knock out repeat cuts quickly and confidently.

If you’ve ever struggled with thin rips—or worse, had a close call—give this method a try. It’s one of the simplest upgrades you can make to your table saw setup, and it’ll save you time, wood, and headaches.