How to Sharpen Chisels (The Right Way)

Just how sharp are your chisels? Sharp enough for fine woodworking, or just barely “factory sharp”? If I had to guess, especially for newer woodworkers, your chisels probably aren’t as sharp as they could be.

It took me 40 years to finally learn how to sharpen a chisel properly. I wish I had learned sooner because once you do it right, everything changes. Less force, cleaner cuts, and far more control.

Here’s exactly how I sharpen my chisels—step by step.

Step 1: Grinding (Only When Needed)

You don’t need to grind every time you sharpen. Most of the time, you’ll start with honing. But if your chisel is damaged or poorly ground from the factory, you’ll need to regrind it.

I use a slow-speed grinder, which runs around 100–250 RPM and uses a water bath to keep things cool. It’s far better than a high-speed grinder, which can heat the steel and ruin the temper.

If you do use a high-speed grinder (because that’s all you have), take light passes and dip the blade in water between every pass to avoid overheating.

A slow-speed grinder creates a hollow grind, which isn’t strictly necessary, but it helps when honing the secondary bevel later. I mount the blade in a jig, use a guide to set the angle precisely, and move the blade evenly across the stone.

Note: I rarely grind because I take care of my tools. But when needed, this is the method I trust.

Step 2: Flattening the Back

Before honing the bevel, you need to flatten the back of the chisel. You only need to do this once for a new chisel, and occasionally after that.

Place the back of the chisel on your 400-grit water stone. Use your dominant hand to gently control the handle, and your other hand to apply light, even pressure to the blade, especially right near the cutting edge. Avoid tilting the blade up or down.

You’ll start to see where the stone is making contact. Ideally, you’ll get a shiny band right across the cutting edge. If you see uneven spots, like an “H” shape or only the corners polished, keep going.

Focus your pressure right at the tip to grind that front edge flat. Once you’ve got a small, polished strip at the edge, you're ready to hone.

Step 3: Honing the Bevel

Honing is where most of your sharpening happens. I use water stones, starting with 400 grit, then 1,000, then up to 3,000 or 6,000 depending on how fine an edge I want.

You’ll want a jig to hold your chisel at the correct angle. Pros can do it freehand, but for most of us, a jig ensures repeatable, accurate results. Personally, I rely on the Sawinery Sharpening Jig because it holds the angle well for consistent sharpening.

Most factory chisels come with a 25° bevel. That’s good, but to reduce brittleness and make sharpening easier, I add a micro bevel at 30°. You only need to sharpen that small edge to save time and steel.

Move the chisel evenly across the stone. You’ll see the stone darken as metal filings accumulate. Check for a burr on the back. If you feel one, just flip the chisel and take a couple passes to remove it.

Then step up to finer grits (e.g. 1,000 and 3,000 or 6,000), repeating the process.

TIP: What you’re doing here is removing scratches, from coarse to fine. Each grit leaves smaller scratches than the last, until the edge becomes smooth and razor sharp.

Step 4: Stropping (Optional, But Highly Recommended)

Stropping is the final polish. It’s not about grinding anymore. Instead, it’s about refining and polishing that edge to the absolute max.

Use a leather strop and apply polishing compound. I use two: green (coarse) and blue (fine). Add a small amount of oil to help it spread. Something like 3-in-1 oil, WD-40, or any fine machine oil works.

Pull the chisel backward across the strop—never push. Push strokes can dig into the leather. Use a consistent angle and do 10–20 strokes on each side.

After stropping, you’ll often find your chisel cuts paper more cleanly than a scalpel.

Bonus: Flattening Your Stones

Over time, your honing stones can wear unevenly. To keep them flat, use a flattening stone or diamond plate. I use one with 120 and 180 grit sides.

Rub it across the stone in a figure-eight or circular motion, using even pressure. You’ll see low spots (usually in the middle) gradually disappear. That’s how you know it’s working.

It doesn’t need to be done after every use, but keep an eye on it. Especially if you use wide chisels or plane irons.

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Final Thoughts

A sharp chisel doesn’t just make woodworking easier. It makes it more enjoyable as well. Whether you’re paring dovetails or cleaning up tenons, having a keen edge gives you better control, cleaner cuts, and less frustration at the bench. 

And while sharpening can seem intimidating at first, it’s really just a matter of breaking it down into steps and paying attention to the details. Once you’ve got your process dialed in, it becomes second nature. Your work will show it.