How to Use the Sawinery Plane and Chisel Sharpening Jig

If you want sharp hand tools, you need a reliable system—and the Sawinery Plane and Chisel Sharpening Jig is my go-to. I’m not talking about table saw blades (though those matter too). I’m talking about hand planes and chisels. Those blades need to be honed far beyond their factory grind, and this system makes that process consistent and easy.

 

Why This Jig Works

What makes our Plane and Chisel Sharpening Jig special is how well it holds the blade at a consistent angle. That angle is key. Whether you're sharpening a chisel or a plane blade, if your angle isn’t steady, you’ll end up with an inconsistent bevel and a poor cutting edge.

Once you set the blade holder on this jig, it's locked in. You don’t need to keep adjusting every time you switch tools—unless you want to. Unlike other jigs I’ve used, it holds its setting from one session to the next.

 

Setting the Sharpening Angle

The jig comes with an Allen wrench and two gold socket head cap screws. These let you set the angle of the blade carrier. When I first used this, I tried a digital angle finder—very accurate, but just a bit awkward.

Instead, I made a couple of angled gauge blocks out of wood—one for 25° and another for 30°. I just slide one under the carrier, adjust the jig until it sits flat, and then tighten the screws.

Tip: When making your own angle blocks, cut just off the line and sand to it. It’s more precise than relying on a bandsaw cut.

 

The Sharpening Stone

The Sawinery jig is designed to work with water stones, and your kit includes a dual-sided 400/1000 grit stone. Water stones cut faster than oil stones, but you do have to soak them. I soak mine for at least 15 minutes—no more air bubbles means it's ready.

You can also use an oil stone or even a diamond plate. The system fits stones or plates that are 180mm to 220mm long and up to 75mm wide. 

 

Plane Blade Sharpening Step-by-Step

Let’s walk through sharpening a common blade—like one from a Stanley No. 4. You’ll need to remove the chip breaker and frog so you’re working with just the blade.

1. Set the stone in place and lock it down snugly.

2. Insert the blade into the jig so it just touches the stone.

3. Make sure it’s aligned properly using the guide lines.

 

4. Tighten the thumb screws.

5. Move the blade gently back and forth across the stone. Use two hands if you want even pressure.

If the grind marks are uneven, tweak your blade position slightly and try again.

Once you’re satisfied with your edge on the 400 grit side, flip the stone to the 1000 grit side and repeat the process. This polishes the bevel and refines the sharpness.

Optional Upgrade: For an even finer edge, consider adding a 3000 grit stone.

What About Chisels?

The process for chisels is nearly identical. The only difference is that the blade holder has a central groove designed to help hold the chisel straight.

Just like with the plane blade:

• Insert the chisel just until it touches the stone.
• Use light pressure and work it back and forth.
• Check your grind and adjust as needed.

Finishing Touch: Removing the Burr

After sharpening, lay the back of the blade flat on the stone and lightly move it back and forth. This knocks off any burr that’s formed on the back edge. It doesn’t take much—just enough to clean it up and give you the sharpest edge possible.

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Whether you're sharpening a chisel or a plane, the key is consistency—and this jig makes it repeatable and easy. With minimal setup and a few simple steps, you’ll get your tools razor sharp and ready for serious work.