Using blocks, boards, and blocks in preparing food nowadays seems inevitable. However, the presence of harmful toxins and chemicals in just about everything has made people increasingly wary of the food they ingest.
If you want to DIY your wooden utensils and bowls, there are several food-safe wood finish options out there. You won’t worry about the risks of toxins with these finishes:
9 Wood Sealers and Oils that are Food-Safe
There is a wide array of choices in the market today that are unblended, naturally sourced, with no secret ingredients, and non-toxic.
#1: Tung Oil
Pure tung oil is one of the most common food-safe finishes. It is a non-toxic and eco-friendly finish from a China wood tree nut.
Another option you can try is Danish oil, a combination of pure tung oil and varnish. Danish oils provide good protection from water and moisture.
Advantages
- Durable and flexible finish
- It has a water-resistant and film-forming finish that protects wood from mold and moisture
- Easy to clean
- Non-drying oil that creates a transparent and wet look when it hardens
#2: Linseed Oil
Linseed oil is produced from pressed flax seeds. It has been listed as a food additive by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). It is a slow-drying oil that gets washed off with water, so frequent re-application is needed.
Compared to raw linseed oil from flax seeds, boiled linseed oil is processed using oxidation, making it unsuitable as a finish for wood.
Advantages
- It provides a low luster effect on wood and enhances its natural color
- Can afford decent moisture protection
- Several coats can prevent wood stain
#3: Shellac
Shellac is a non-toxic and all-natural surface sealer produced from the Asian Lac bug.
It has two types: a liquid form and a flake form (also known as dewaxed shellac) — often sold in hardware shops and art supply stores.
Super Blond Shellac is the most water-resistant variety used for wood finishes.
Advantages
- Produces a film-forming glossy finish that is quick drying
- Easy to apply
- Provides good moisture protection
- UV rays resistant
#4: Food-Grade Solid Beeswax
Food-grade beeswax is an eco-friendly finish. The mixture of mineral oil and beeswax can create a more fragrant and water-repellent wood finish by sealing the wood’s pores.
Advantages
- Seal old scratches and sun-damaged wood surfaces.
- Water-repellent and protects against molds, rots, and fungi spores
- Easy to apply
- Produces a glossy and warm film-forming finish on wooden projects
#5: Walnut Oil
Pressed walnut seeds produce walnut oil that can be used as a finish for wood kitchen tables and other wooden projects. Walnut oil is also often sold as a salad oil in various health food stores and markets.
Advantages
- Provides high water and alcohol resistance
- Can produce highly decorative and multi-colored wood
- Does not spoil
- Walnut oil dries slowly on the wood's surface.
- Hardens into a hard resin, satin-like finish for wooden bowls and utensils
#6: Mineral Oil
Food-grade mineral oil is sold as a laxative in drugstores and wood finish in hardware stores. Mineral oil finish is not waterproof and cannot protect wood bowls from scratches.
The fragrant smell from adding lemon essential oil to various mineral oils provides such a pleasure when applied on wooden surfaces.
Advantages
- Odorless, tasteless, and colorless
- Does not spoil
- Easy to apply and conditions the wood and enhances the natural wood grain
- Effective overcoats for water-based wood stains
#7: Coconut Oil
Food-safe finishes that use coconut oil are all-natural, eco-friendly, and non toxic.
Advantages
- Does not stale
- The light protective coating of this oil prevents chipping on the cutting board and other wooden surfaces that are prone to impact.
#8: Paraffin Wax
Paraffin wax comes from extracting distilled petroleum; hence not all paraffin wax is considered safe for consumption.
Advantages
- Used as a coating in the canning industry
- Water-resistant finish that does not affect the previous finishes on any wood surface
#9: Carnauba Wax
Carnauba wax is also called Brazilian wax or palm wax since it is a byproduct of a Brazilian palm tree. It can also be blended with other finishes for a more waterproof coat.
Advantages
- Used as a standalone finish or as a topcoat with another finish
- More water repellent and rigid than beeswax
- Creates a shiny wax finish on wood
- Can create a satin finish when applied correctly (up to three coats)
Which Wood Finish Should I Opt for?
When choosing the right type of food-safe finish, one should consider the level of toxicity, curing time, and application method.
The curing time for each type of wood finish is different and should also be kept in mind when choosing the right type of finish.
Choosing Between Penetrating Oils and Surface Sealers
The main difference between penetrating oils and surface sealer film finishes are their soaking ability into the wood grains.
Surface Sealers Used Today
These food-safe finishes remain on the surface of the wood and can be built up for a more protective effect but require a more complicated application process.
Some of the examples are:
- Shellac
- Beeswax
- Carnauba wax
Penetrating Oil (Drying and Non-Drying)
Penetrating oils soak the wood grains. Although this is easier to apply and provides a more natural finish, it only offers a low level of protection.
Drying Oils Used Today
These oils turn into solid when the wood curing treatment is completed. This curing is called polymerization and begins when the drying oil is exposed to oxygen. Some of the examples of drying penetrating oils are:
- Tung oil
- Walnut oil
- Linseed oil
Non-Drying Oils Used Today
These oils stay wet indefinitely and are transferred when the wood surface is used. Some of the examples of drying penetrating oils are:
- Coconut and Mineral oil
Heat Capacity
The ability of the finish to withstand high and low temperatures should be considered when selecting a food-safe finish. Penetrating oils like tung and mineral oil can tolerate high temperatures better than wax wood finishes.
Curing
Curing time is needed before a finished product is ready to be used. Curing assures that the wood will dry from its surface to the deepest penetration spots.
Oil wood finish from natural ingredients such as tung, teak, or linseed oil, as well as beeswax and shellac do not have a curing time and can be used immediately.
Oil Shelf Life
Unlike mineral oil, the oils produced from the extracted vegetable fats are unsafe and tend to go rancid. Hence they are not used as a finish for wooden surfaces.
Because vegetable oils remain on wood surfaces, they cause an off-taste on foods when the utensils are used. Therefore, when purchasing oil finishes, check their expiration date.
Toxicity Levels
Good ventilation in the workplace and proper breathing protection equipment like a respirator can address the toxicity concerns during the application and curing process.
Tung oil, shellac, and water-based food-safe wood finishes are the least toxic that you can use as the best finish for dining tables, cutting boards, and other wood items involving food and toys. On the other hand, lacquers are the most toxic finish and should not be used.
Aside from finishes, there are various woods that produce toxins and are not safe enough to to use for dining. There are also particular types of wood you should avoid when making cutting boards and other kitchen-related items.
So before finishing these surfaces, make sure if the wood type is safe enough to use in your kitchen.
What Do “Food-Safe” Finishes Mean?
Modern wood finishes can only be considered food-safe if the application and drying processes are done properly and completely.
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is the regulatory organization that checks and maintains food safety. It considers the commercially available wood finishes as food safe only when they are approved for contact with food.
The FDA approval of food-safe wood finishes means that the molecules from the finish are safe for consumption or that the molecules that leach into food when these utensils are used are so tiny that the body can flush them.
The Stone Coat Art Coat Resin is an example of a food-safe epoxy resin. This resin is used to coat a cutting board for light-duty cutting purposes.
The Best Wood Finish Recipe + How to Make Your Own
A homemade wood finish is easy to make and requires only simple ingredients and 20 minutes of your time.
The ingredients would include:
- 5 tablespoons of beeswax melted
- 2 tablespoons of organic coco oil
- Six tablespoons walnut oil
- 3 capsules of vitamin E
- ½ teaspoon orange essential oil
First, gather the required amounts of beeswax [1], coconut, and walnut oil. Then, simmer on medium heat in a glass saucepan until the beeswax is fully melted. (Note: Before using beeswax, make sure to know its disadvantages first.)
After removing the melted oils from the double boiler, mix the vitamin E and orange essential oil and place them in a jar with an airtight lid.
How to Coat Wood Surfaces With an Oil Finish
Lint-free rags and nitrile gloves are highly recommended for applying penetrating oils (both drying and non-drying oils). The oil can either be poured on the rag or rubbed directly on the wood surface in the same direction as the wood grain.
After which, the excess oil left after 10 minutes of soaking should be wiped using a clean rag. Sanding with 400 or 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper can produce a smoother wood finish. Additional coats should be applied when the previous coat is dry to the touch.
How to Safely Dispose of Rags Used for Oil Finishes
The rags used when applying drying penetrating oil can have heat build-up, enough to reach the point of spontaneous combustion, causing the rag to catch fire. There are a few steps to dispose of them to prevent combustion or fire:
First, the used rag should be draped on the edge of a 5-gallon metal bucket in the middle of the floor with good airflow. Then, when the rag is completely dry after a couple of days, place it inside the metal bucket and wait for another week before putting it in the trash can.
Finally, ensure that the used rag is disposed of properly in the bin or container.
Wood Finishes That Should Be Used With Caution
Vegetable Oils
Some vegetable oil, like olive oil, have a shelf-life and can become stale or rancid over time. Applying vegetable oils on wooden kitchen utensils like cutting boards can cause a build-up, cloudy appearance and may eventually discolor it.
This oil coating on wood surfaces is also difficult to remove and may result in an off-wood taste when these utensils are used.
Lacquer
Lacquers require a long curing time and can only be considered a food-safe finish when the coating is fully matured and cured.
Because lacquers only sit on top of wood surfaces and do not penetrate wood grains, it tends to shed lacquer coat chips when too much pressure is applied to them. This disadvantage makes it unsafe to be used as a coating on cutting boards and serving trays.
Polyurethane
Polyurethane provides a transparent hard coat on wood, making it water and abrasion-resistant. However, because of its long curing time (approximately 30 days), people used metallic driers on it to reduce the drying time.
Metal driers are considered a pollutant and pose a great health risk, especially when applied to wooden kitchen utensils and cookware.
So, does this mean polyurethane can be toxic? Learn more here!
FAQ
What is the food-safe stain I can use for butcher block countertops?
Butcher Block Oil + Stain are food-safe stains used for wood countertops. These specifically formulated products are safe for staining cutting boards and wooden butcher blocks.
What oils or sealers can I use to replenish my wooden kitchen tools?
Tung, mineral, or walnut oil can replenish wooden kitchen tools. These oils are effective in refreshing wood projects that can be sold, like wooden bowls, cutting boards, or salad bowls that get roughly treated with knives and other utensils.
Conclusion
When choosing a food-safe wood finish, one should consider various factors like curing time, heat capacity, and toxin levels. Some wood finishes that should be used carefully are lacquer, polyurethane, and vegetable oils.
A homemade finish for wood surfaces is cheap and easy to make. It only requires a few ingredients, such as beeswax, and instruments like a double boiler and glass container.
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